By Can Akkaya, Superbike-Coach Corp.
This app is never really "done" — we're constantly building on it based on what riders actually ask for. Got an idea or found something clunky? Tell us.
Latest update (v10.17):
Setup Sheet now links to My Garage — pick a bike, get stock-settings search links right in each section, and repopulate a whole sheet from a previously downloaded CSV.
Ten live calculators, not a spec sheet — drag a slider and watch the bars move, the verdict change, the numbers react in real time. Stuck on something weird the bike's doing? The troubleshooters actually think across tabs to find it. Go play with it.
🔧 Suspension & Sag — measure it, and watch it grade itself instantly
🎛️ Damping Matrix — pick your style, get real clicker targets
🛢️ Oil Level & Viscosity — fork air gap, oil weight, rear gas charge
📐 Geometry & Swingarm — drag rake, ride height, offset — feel the tradeoffs
🖐️ Testing — hands-on checks: balance test, tire temps, lap times
🏁 Tires & Thermals — read the wear pattern like a tuner would
⚡ Electronics Mapping — TC, slide control, ABS, wheelie control, live
⚙️ Gear Ratios — a real straightaway RPM solver, not guesswork
🧩 Global System Diagnostic — one complaint, every likely cause, ranked
📋 Setup Sheet — log every session, print or export it
The tools above are for tuning. This part's for keeping track of everything else — the bikes you own, the tracks you've ridden, and what's coming up next.
🏍️ My Garage — every bike you've got, current or past, with a photo and full specs
🔧 Service Log — set your own intervals, the app tells you when something's actually due
🛠️ Upgrade Log — every part you've put on, where it came from, what it cost
🏆 Race Track History — a permanent record of every track you've ridden
📅 Track Day Planner — countdown, tickets, directions, and a reminder before it sneaks up on you
💸 My Discounts — every partner deal and code you've got, in one place instead of your inbox
Disclaimer & Terms of Use: Moto Tuner Pro is a technical logging and reference tool provided strictly for informational purposes. The user is solely responsible for verifying all mechanical adjustments, structural integrity, and machine safety before operating a motorcycle. Superbike-Coach Corp assumes no liability for mechanical failure, property damage, personal injury, or death resulting from the use of this application. Use at your own risk and always obey applicable traffic laws and safety regulations.
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Rider (loaded) sag targets in mm, front and rear, by riding category. Standard is the exact number as given — slide up for Expert/Pro (5mm tighter), down for Novice/Intermediate (5mm looser).
Free (static/unloaded) sag is commonly cited around 5-15mm for street/sport bikes, but that figure scales up with travel — it runs deeper in mm on higher-travel categories like Adventure, Supermoto, and Moto Cross, so don't apply the flat street number to those. Either way, this chart covers rider sag only, not free sag.
Once your measured sag tells you which way to move, this is the direction to turn the collar to get there.
Spring rate only becomes the issue once preload adjustment alone can't get your sag numbers into target range. Fill in your profile below, measure your sag above, then pick the symptom that matches what you're seeing.
💡 Change one spring (front or rear) at a time and re-measure sag before touching the other end — otherwise you won't know which change actually fixed it.
Be honest about your level — it directly shapes how aggressive the recommendation below is, and an inflated answer will steer you toward a setup that fights you rather than helps you.
Be honest about your level — it shifts both the baseline graphic below and how many clicks the troubleshooter suggests moving at once. Overstating it can push you into changes bigger than you can actually feel.
This assumes one compression and one rebound adjuster per end, like most stock and mid-tier suspension. If yours has separate high/low-speed circuits, treat this as your low-speed starting point.
Pick what you're actually feeling out on track or the street — not the technical cause. The diagnosis and fix are below.
💡 Change one click at a time, on the same road or same section of track, back-to-back — otherwise you're guessing which change actually did what.
Clickers adjust the shim stack. Oil level and viscosity change the fluid itself — the thing the shim stack is working against. If you've maxed out your clickers and it's still not right, this is usually the next place to look, not another re-valve.
Be honest about your level — it changes how big a move the troubleshooter below suggests.
No oil level (air gap) slider here on purpose — a fork is a genuinely different design. Forks use an intentional air gap above the oil that gets compressed for progressive end-of-stroke resistance, which is exactly why oil level is a real tunable parameter up there. A rear shock's damper body is sealed and fully oil-filled, with no air gap to speak of; the job of giving the fluid somewhere to go under hard, fast compression is handled by a separate nitrogen gas charge instead (in the piggyback reservoir or an internal bladder). Different mechanism, different parameter — viscosity and gas pressure, not "oil level."
This range is illustrative, not a spec — actual gas charge PSI varies a lot by shock model and manufacturer. Set it to your shock's actual spec sheet as the real baseline; treat this slider as showing the direction of the effect, not a number to chase.
Pick what you're feeling. If clickers alone haven't fixed it, this is usually why.
💡 Change one thing at a time — air gap or viscosity, not both — and give it a full session before judging, since fade-related symptoms only show up once things get hot.
Set by the triple clamps, not a clicker. Less offset = more trail = more stable, heavier steering. More offset = less trail = lighter, quicker, less planted at speed. Roughly 1mm of offset moves trail about 1mm the other way — a rule of thumb, not an exact figure for your bike.
Describe what this specific track demands, and this sets a suggested starting point on the four sliders above — it drives the same map, it doesn't replace it.
Pick what you're feeling and where in the corner it happens — straight, braking, entry, mid-corner, or exit.
💡 Change one lever at a time — fork height, rear height, pivot, or wheelbase — and go back to the same corner before changing another. Moving two at once means you won't know which one actually fixed it.
Be honest — it changes how big a move the troubleshooter suggests.
Every other tab in this plugin is about dialing in a number on a stand — sag targets, damping clicks, pressures, geometry. This tab is the opposite direction: simple checks you do with the bike, before and after you ride, to see whether what you dialed in is actually what's happening out there. None of these replace the calculators elsewhere — they're the reality check that tells you whether to trust the number or go back and dig further.
A quick push test that tells you whether the front and rear are working together as one system, before you ever add speed, weight transfer, or cornering forces into the mix.
How to do it: bike upright on level ground, off any stand, both wheels down, nobody sitting on it. Find roughly the bike's center — usually somewhere around the tank/seat junction. Push down firmly right there and watch the front fork and rear shock together as they compress: they should move down at a similar rate, not one end diving noticeably faster or deeper than the other. Then let go and watch them come back up — both ends should extend at a similar rate too, not one snapping back quicker while the other lags.
If they're off — one end visibly faster or slower going down, or coming back up — that's a compression or rebound damping mismatch between the two ends, not something sag or preload alone will fix. Adjust the faster end's damping up (or the slower end's down) until they move together.
This gives you a solid static baseline — how the two ends respond in isolation, with no weight transfer or moving contact patch involved. What actually happens under real riding load can shift from this, so treat it as a starting reference to test against on track or the road, not a final answer.
A loose zip tie around one fork stanchion is the cheapest travel indicator you'll ever own. With the front fully extended, slide it down until it rests on the dust seal — that's your zero. As the fork compresses, the seal pushes the tie up the stanchion and it stays at the highest point reached, even after the fork extends back out.
Barely moved: using very little travel — not necessarily wrong, but worth knowing.
Comfortably up the tube, room left above: healthy, normal usage.
Right up near the top: you're bottoming out — a real warning, treat it as a case for more preload or compression damping.
Run one on each leg for a consistency check — if the two sides don't match, check Geometry & Swingarm before assuming it's a straightforward suspension setting.
A relative, by-eye read, not a measurement — it tells you whether your Suspension & Sag numbers are holding up in the real world, it doesn't replace them.
Two separate readings, both worth taking every time: pressure cold (before you ride, your known baseline) and pressure hot (immediately after, before it has time to bleed back down) — the rise between the two tells you whether you're actually reaching working pressure or overshooting it. Log both; the delta matters as much as either number alone.
Temperature is the same idea applied across the tread instead of over time — take it at the inner, center, and outer thirds of the contact patch (a pyrometer probed into the rubber is far more reliable than a surface IR gun, which mostly reads whatever's on top of the rubber, not the rubber itself). Even heat across all three thirds generally means pressure and lean angle usage are matched to the tire; a hot edge next to a cold one is a pressure or geometry mismatch, not something to average away.
Log the actual numbers and get the diagnosis on the Tires & Thermals tab — the fields and the interpretation both live there. This box is just the "why" behind taking the readings this specific way.
For tracking these numbers session to session rather than just diagnosing one reading, log them in the Setup Sheet tab alongside whatever else changed that session — that's what actually lets you tell whether a pressure change did what you expected, instead of relying on memory.
Every check on this tab, every number on every other tab, is ultimately in service of one outcome: is the bike faster and more predictable to ride? Lap time is the only number that can't be argued with — it's the one place where a setup change either shows up or it didn't.
That's exactly why the Setup Sheet tab has a Lap Time field built into every session, right alongside every setting you changed for that session. Log it every time, even on a day that felt slow — a session that felt bad but times fine tells you something different than one that felt bad and was slow, and you can't tell them apart later without both pieces logged together.
One change at a time, one session at a time, lap time and notes logged alongside it — that's what turns the Setup Sheet from a list of numbers into an actual record of what worked. Without it, you're relying on memory for which change did what, and memory is the least reliable instrument on the bike.
A single quick lap doesn't prove much either way — conditions, traffic, and a cold tire can swing a lap time more than most setup changes do. Look for a consistent shift across a run, not one outlier lap.
Pressure and appearance are the two things worth checking first — appearance tells you what already happened, pressure and compound are usually what you change because of it. A tire tells a fairly honest story if you know how to read it: cold and hot pressure together show whether you're building heat the way the compound expects, and where the wear or damage actually sits across the tread points at pressure, geometry, or riding style specifically, not just "the tire's worn out." Treat this tab as a diagnostic first and a logbook second — the numbers matter less on their own than what they mean when read together.
Changing tire size affects rolling circumference and ride height. This tells you the tire-side effect — apply the actual slider move on the Geometry & Swingarm tab.
Diameter only — check the tire's spec sheet or sidewall, or look up the size code online. Estimating from width/aspect can be off by 2x or more on race slicks, so it's not worth the false precision.
The confusing part: hotter conditions build heat faster, so start lower on cold pressure. Colder conditions build heat slower, so start higher — otherwise you never reach working pressure at all.
Pick what you're feeling or seeing — appearance, pressure feel, or compound behavior.
What does your tire actually look like?
Cold Tear
Rough, chunky, torn — not melted
Hot Tear
Shallow, shedding patches
Overheated / Greasy
Marbled, debris stuck to surface
Healthy
Even, consistent, fine texture
Reference photos only — lighting, compound, and camera angle all affect how a surface looks. Use these as a rough guide, not a certain diagnosis. Appearance alone can't tell you whether it's pressure or compound — pick the matching symptom below for both possibilities.
💡 Change one thing at a time — pressure or compound, not both — and give it a full run before judging, since some of this only shows up once the tire's fully cycled.
Be honest — it changes how big a move the troubleshooter suggests.
Modern race electronics do in software what riders used to do by feel alone — reading lean angle, wheel speed, and pitch dozens of times a second and stepping in before you can react. Every one of these systems is still just a leash, though: fully off gives you the raw mechanical bike, all rider; fully on gives the ECU the most room to intervene. None of it fixes a bad mechanical setup — it masks it, sometimes just long enough to hide the real problem. If you're leaning hard on TC or Slide Control to hold a line the chassis won't hold on its own, that's worth chasing on the Suspension & Sag or Geometry & Swingarm tabs too.
Position 0 switches the selected processor completely OFF.
Not a safety processor, so 0 here means Direct (least smoothing) rather than "off" — this is the shape of the power curve for a given throttle position. Some bikes bundle it into Riding Mode automatically; others let you set it independently.
Illustrative, relative percentages showing how your settings interact — not manufacturer telemetry or a claim about your specific bike's actual ECU curves.
ABS, Cornering ABS, and Rear Lift-off Mitigation all trade some raw stopping power for stability — each catches a problem sooner, but that also means intervening before the tire's or chassis's true limit more often. This bar is that trade, not a claim about absolute stopping distance in feet or meters.
TC, Slide Control, Wheelie Control, and Cornering ABS all read from the same 6-axis Inertial Measurement Unit — that's why they behave consistently as a set (e.g. all getting more conservative together at higher lean) instead of acting like unrelated, independent systems.
Symptoms are sorted by where you're actually riding — a Street list and a Track list, since the same complaint often points at a different system (or isn't an electronics question at all) depending on which one you're in.
This tab only touches the last link in the chain — literally: front and rear sprockets, the final drive ratio. The diagram shows why that's a narrower job than it sounds: your bike's actual ratio in any gear is Primary × Gearbox × Final Drive, all multiplied together. Changing sprockets scales that whole stack by the same amount in every gear at once — which is exactly what makes the solver below work, and also why it can't fix a wrong internal gearbox ratio, only work around it. Street riders get a quicker-revving, more connected engine (or better highway economy geared the other way); track riders get a way to stop guessing and calculate the exact combo that uses the whole straight.
Test modifications to pinpoint ratio changes down to single-tooth accuracy adjustments.
Give it your CURRENT sprockets (above), redline, and what you actually saw at the braking marker last session — it calculates the specific sprocket combo to close the gap, not a generic "try a tooth" guess.
Whichever gear you actually ended up in at the marker is fine to enter — closing an RPM gap works the same in any gear, since a sprocket change scales every gear by the same amount. It doesn't have to be 6th.
A sprocket change touches more than just the ratio number — chain fit, chassis behavior, and everyday rideability all move with it.
Every other tab's troubleshooter is the real, maintained answer for its own system — this one doesn't duplicate any of that. Its job is the step before: a complaint like "runs wide on exit" isn't one thing, it's Electronics, Geometry, and chassis balance all capable of causing the exact same feeling. This tab tells you which of those to actually go check, in the order worth checking them, then sends you straight to the specific answer.
Category shifts which system is worth checking first, not which ones are possible — a track rider leaning on active electronics gets a different first stop than a street rider who mostly doesn't.
Not on the list above, or don't know the right words for it? Search across every specific symptom in every troubleshooter in this plugin — 94 of them — and jump straight to a match.
An ongoing log for this bike — log stock settings once, then add a session any time you change something, at any track, on any day. Working on a different bike? Download this as a CSV first, then pick the new bike below — next time you're back on this one, upload its CSV to pick up where you left off.
Coach Can Akkaya’s book, Mind Over Machine is available on Amazon as ebook, paper or hardcover.